What we looked for
Real wool content (≥ 70%), a melton or heavyweight twill weave, lined sleeves, and a hem that hangs without break-in. Bonus points for a horn button. We tested each coat through three wears, two third-wash cycles, and an honest pilling check at the cuffs and underarms.
The standouts
One blend quietly punched above its price; one classic earned its price. The other three pilled within two wears, dropped buttons, or felt like a different garment after the first wash. We name the winners and explain why the rest disappointed.
The big surprise of the test wasn’t a coat — it was a fabric: a recycled-wool melton that beat all but one of the virgin-wool contenders on hand-feel and pilling. We’ll be watching the brand closely.